"SS Thistlegorm, Egypt" by Bill Hulse
Having completed two Northern Red Sea trips with my friends and colleagues from Harlow SAC in 2007 and 2009, the dives on the ‘Thistlegorm’ remain the most memorable. Lying around 30m at Sha’ab Ali in the Strait of Gobal off the Sinai peninsular, it is easily accessible by day boats and live-aboards alike, making it possibly one of the World’s most dived wrecks.
Pictured from left: Alan Harman, Kelvin Price, Lorna Crump, Tracy Crump
and Stuart Crump perched on the SS Thistlegorm
This floating ordinance depot measuring 130m by 17m with a gross tonnage of 9,000 tons, was a steam driven freighter built in Sunderland before her launch there in 1940. Capable of 10 knots from her twin boiler steam engine, Thistlegorm left Glasgow for the last time before sailing for Egypt in August 1941.
With a crew of almost 40 sailors and nine Navy gunners to man her armaments, comprising a 4.7 inch cannon, an anti-aircraft machine gun, and a heavy machine gun, the ship was destined to supply British Forces in North Africa.
The shortest route via the Straits of Gibraltar to Alexandria was however within easy reach of German and Italian war planes, so the convoy of 16 supply ships, including Thistlegorm made their 12,000 mile voyage around the Cape of Good Hope to the Port of Tawiq by the Suez Canal.
After a relatively uneventful voyage, the convoy eventually came to anchorage ‘F; regarded as a safe berth on the eastern side of the Gulf near Sha’ab Ali. Close by the convoy protection cruiser HMS Carlisle was also anchored, which was later to pick up survivors from Thistlegorm. During late September, early October, temperatures in this part of the World easily reach 35°c, with the inviting blue water well into the mid twenties.
The convoy was delayed entering port, so the crew enjoyed the calm and warm conditions to relax after their long journey. The scene and coastline of Sinai remains the same today, undisturbed by the passage of time.
On the fateful night of 5th October 1941, the skies were clear with a bright moon silhouetting the anchored convoy, when spotted by two low flying twin engined Heinkel Bombers returning fully armed to their base in Crete.
Both had unsuccessfully tried to locate the Queen Mary and her cargo of Australian troops when shortage of fuel forced their return to base. Recognising enemy shipping, they decided to attack Thistlegorm, the largest freighter, with their 2,000 kg high explosive bombs, designed especially for sea targets.
The raid at 01.30am took the crews by complete surprise, with no chance of bringing their guns into action before at least one of the bombs hit Thistlegorm midships behind the bridge, causing an enormous explosion. The nine casualties included five navy gunners.
A second explosion followed the first, thought to be the ships boilers exploding while still under steam, then several minutes later most of the ammunition in this area went off, creating a firework like display as tracer shells soared into the night sky. The wreck settled upright on the seabed strewn with debris from the vessel and her cargo.
After the war the wreck was first discovered by the legendary Jacques Cousteau in 1956, but not dived commercially until much later. The site is however a war grave and a memorial to those that died in supporting the successful North Africa campaign which eventually led to the surrender of German and Axis forces in 1945.
There are two highlights of this dive for me, first the fabulous profiles of the exterior, starting with the bow and anchor chain, companionways and stern with the downward pointing 4.7 inch gun. Second the preserved cargo of munitions, supplies and war machinery still in the holds as stored in Glasgow almost 70 years ago.
There are of course many other features to this interesting and historic wreck including the remains of the railway locomotives, well established coral formations, marine life of virtually every kind including turtles, groupers, batfish, snappers etc, all of which have made the final resting place of Thistlegorm their own permanent home.
With potential currents, reduced viz, depth and penetration possibilities, this is not a dive to be taken too lightly. Divers must be well prepared, qualified to Sports Diver plus, and when visiting for the first few times at least, will benefit from joining an experienced guide to get the most from each dive. Once seen it is a wreck you will be tempted to re-visit time and time again.
